And then there is Palestine and Israel. As I watch the news I struggle with how to respond. What could I do or say? A year and a half ago, I had met Izeldine on the steps of the Damascus gate in Jerusalem to start our food tour in the Old City. Sacred Cuisine --a sampling of local foods with stories about Palestinian heritage. A few years earlier I'd walked through the gate at dusk during Ramadan when locals were celebrating the breaking of the day-long fast. Dozens of food vendors with dozens of locals gathered in small groups sharing tea and sweets and chatting, smoking shisha. In the muted tiny lights of the ancient gate it was magical. Now the images from the gate are horrifying.

While the ancient walls have seen centuries of strife, this century I have friends whose lives are affected, who are struggling. . . what can I say or do. The news focused on Jerusalem and Gaza, but I knew other cities in Palestine located close to the settlements or checkpoints would be exploding as well. Palestine still struggles with COVID vaccinations compared to Israel, the US and India. My colleagues are exhausted and these are the holiest days with Ramadan.

I WhatsApped my friends. I've learned they read WhatApp messages faster than email. I sent my thoughts and prayers. Here are some of the responses I received:

"It is terrible here--police and smoke everywhere. My Dad is dying of cancer, in the hospital 3 months. I am not working much so I have spent time with him . . . " --a taxi driver in Jerusalem

"Thank you for your feelings and your nice words. This is our fate; life will go on and justice must win." --a physician in a village near Nablus

"I don't know what to think abut events that we are witnessing, unspeakable terror and panic." --a physician in a small city near Nablus who rode a donkey to bypass checkpoints during medical school during the 2nd intifada.

"It was ghastly to watch. But Nablus is full of colors now." --a physician in Nablus

"Everything in Palestine is not normally distributed, even suffering." --a physician in Nablus

NYT journalist Tom Friedman's (From Beirut to Jerusalem) recent opinion piece helped me think about this ongoing struggle in today's context.

Again I am reminded of temoignage --from the French verb bearing witness. I learned this from my time with MSF. Whether in public or private, bear witness and stand alongside those who are suffering.